On the threshold of the State Flag Day, Turkmen mountain climbers hoisted the national flag on the main national point - pearl of Koytendag - Ayrybaba peak (3139m). The patriotic event was organized by the mountaineering club "Agama" with the support of the State Committee of Turkmenistan for Sport and the State Committee for Environmental and Land Resources protection.
Nearly three dozens of athletes - representatives of Ashgabat mountaineering club "Agama", from Balkanabat - "Mert" as well as conquerors of mountain tops of Turkmenabat have taken part at the traditional ascent. The work of groups was coordinated by Valery Kotvin - Chairman of "Agama" mountaineering club.
This time, the Ashgabat team managed to lay a new, technically difficult route to the summit - traverse, the terms of which require decent and ascent take place in different ways. Traverse of the Ayrybaba peak was carried out for the first time, and the route preparation was difficult because of all the complexity of the upcoming ascent. They went alpine style - that is the base camp, in fact, was absent, and all the bivouac, technical and personal equipment was carried on hands over challenging rocky and snowy areas.
We team consisted of the most experienced climbers of Turkmenistan. For example, ascent to Khan Tengri and Lenin Peak is on the account of Dmitriy Vinokurov, Vadim Sobolev – ascended Khan-Tengri and Ararat, Yevgeniy Yarygin - autumn ascent to Elbrus, champion of Turkmenistan among women rock climbers Daria Chikaidze also entered the group.
The road to the main summit at 3139 meters height of the Ayrybaba North top laid on narrow snow-covered ridge. Deep gorges forced athletes to deviate from the planned route and walk two kilometers to the north of the main crest of the ridge.
The sun was setting down when the first camp was set at 2850 meters altitude. The weather favored the ascent, the temperature did not drop below minus 12 degrees at night. In the vicinity of the Ayrybaba peak snow lies from October to May, beneath of which lie waiting for the short summer growing season dormant rare clumps of grasses, thorny upland xerophytes and miniature rose.
With the dawn the group popped up towards the second summit, and again adjusted the route, avoiding overhanging ragged stone teeth over a precipice difficult traveled part of a rocky ridge. The route was laid with stone shelves and lobbies with deep snow, through which the trail had to broken in turn. Snow-covered cliffs forced climbers to descend to the bottom of one of the highest valleys of the country, where begins the Daraydere canyon.
Meanwhile, the weather has finally deteriorated, ridge overcast with dense fog, a snowstorm started, which almost knock down in complicated areas, threw a handful of thorny snowflakes to faces.
High-tech ammunition from windproof material that provides comfort even in the most severe frosts helped to cope with the harsh weather conditions. Sunglasses and masks took care of eyes from multiple snow cover reflections of mountain ultraviolet.
They had finally managed to reach the western edge of Ayrybaba North top leaving the bottom of the gorge. The narrow, rocky, iced from both sides trimmed precipices, the bottom of which was interfered with dense fog. On difficult sections there was a necessity to cut down the level in the dense snowpack with ice-ax.
Way difficulties could not stop the good mood of athletes - traverse path of the Ayrybaba peak was found, all believed in success of the expedition. On the summit ridge at an altitude of over 2900 meters, on a ledge limited with cliffs, the second high-altitude camp has been settled.
Morning was chilly and sunny, clouds lowered, hiding with dense blanket lying below Koytendag possession. The Ayrybaba peak proudly clad in shining ice-snow apparel tops stands above them. After half an hour climbing the group reached the South summit. A path on snowy crest with about three kilometers length laid to the main summit from there.
Finally, about three o'clock in the afternoon the Turkmen State Flag flew over Ayrybaba peak at around 3139 meters height.
Traverse of Ayrybaba peak has taken place! In the future, this highest mountain route will be an important step towards the conquest of the highest peaks of the world for Turkmen mountain climbers.
Experience gained as a result of the ascent is invaluable, and held climbing assembly have become a good training for Turkmen summit conquerors that already have extensive experience of climbing the Pamir, Tien Shan and the Caucasus mountains system, and those for whom the path to the top has just begun.
Nearly three dozens of athletes - representatives of Ashgabat mountaineering club "Agama", from Balkanabat - "Mert" as well as conquerors of mountain tops of Turkmenabat have taken part at the traditional ascent. The work of groups was coordinated by Valery Kotvin - Chairman of "Agama" mountaineering club.
This time, the Ashgabat team managed to lay a new, technically difficult route to the summit - traverse, the terms of which require decent and ascent take place in different ways. Traverse of the Ayrybaba peak was carried out for the first time, and the route preparation was difficult because of all the complexity of the upcoming ascent. They went alpine style - that is the base camp, in fact, was absent, and all the bivouac, technical and personal equipment was carried on hands over challenging rocky and snowy areas.
We team consisted of the most experienced climbers of Turkmenistan. For example, ascent to Khan Tengri and Lenin Peak is on the account of Dmitriy Vinokurov, Vadim Sobolev – ascended Khan-Tengri and Ararat, Yevgeniy Yarygin - autumn ascent to Elbrus, champion of Turkmenistan among women rock climbers Daria Chikaidze also entered the group.
The road to the main summit at 3139 meters height of the Ayrybaba North top laid on narrow snow-covered ridge. Deep gorges forced athletes to deviate from the planned route and walk two kilometers to the north of the main crest of the ridge.
The sun was setting down when the first camp was set at 2850 meters altitude. The weather favored the ascent, the temperature did not drop below minus 12 degrees at night. In the vicinity of the Ayrybaba peak snow lies from October to May, beneath of which lie waiting for the short summer growing season dormant rare clumps of grasses, thorny upland xerophytes and miniature rose.
With the dawn the group popped up towards the second summit, and again adjusted the route, avoiding overhanging ragged stone teeth over a precipice difficult traveled part of a rocky ridge. The route was laid with stone shelves and lobbies with deep snow, through which the trail had to broken in turn. Snow-covered cliffs forced climbers to descend to the bottom of one of the highest valleys of the country, where begins the Daraydere canyon.
Meanwhile, the weather has finally deteriorated, ridge overcast with dense fog, a snowstorm started, which almost knock down in complicated areas, threw a handful of thorny snowflakes to faces.
High-tech ammunition from windproof material that provides comfort even in the most severe frosts helped to cope with the harsh weather conditions. Sunglasses and masks took care of eyes from multiple snow cover reflections of mountain ultraviolet.
They had finally managed to reach the western edge of Ayrybaba North top leaving the bottom of the gorge. The narrow, rocky, iced from both sides trimmed precipices, the bottom of which was interfered with dense fog. On difficult sections there was a necessity to cut down the level in the dense snowpack with ice-ax.
Way difficulties could not stop the good mood of athletes - traverse path of the Ayrybaba peak was found, all believed in success of the expedition. On the summit ridge at an altitude of over 2900 meters, on a ledge limited with cliffs, the second high-altitude camp has been settled.
Morning was chilly and sunny, clouds lowered, hiding with dense blanket lying below Koytendag possession. The Ayrybaba peak proudly clad in shining ice-snow apparel tops stands above them. After half an hour climbing the group reached the South summit. A path on snowy crest with about three kilometers length laid to the main summit from there.
Finally, about three o'clock in the afternoon the Turkmen State Flag flew over Ayrybaba peak at around 3139 meters height.
Traverse of Ayrybaba peak has taken place! In the future, this highest mountain route will be an important step towards the conquest of the highest peaks of the world for Turkmen mountain climbers.
Experience gained as a result of the ascent is invaluable, and held climbing assembly have become a good training for Turkmen summit conquerors that already have extensive experience of climbing the Pamir, Tien Shan and the Caucasus mountains system, and those for whom the path to the top has just begun.
